The Royal Borough of Greenwich is best known for its naval
connections and of being the home of Greenwich Mean Time. But less than two
miles to the east is a little-known gem: Charlton House, one of the finest
surviving Jacobean manor houses in England. It sits on a hill, and when construction
began in 1607, the estate stretched right down to the river. The diarist, John
Evelyn, described the view as ‘one of the most noble in the world, for city,
river, ships, meadows, hills, woods and all other amenities’. Today it's surrounded by urban sprawl. The
house, however, retains many of its original features. It was built for Sir
Adam Newton, tutor to James I’s son Henry, older brother of Charles 1. He sadly
died at the age of 18 but the royal connection features in several places,
including the Prince of Wales feathers above the east door to the Minstrel Hall,
where you enter.
Leading off this is the Grand Staircase, where the decoration
becomes more ornate as you ascend. It was believed evil spirits grew more
dangerous the higher you were, so carved into the banisters are grotesque faces
whose mouths grow bigger as you ascend – all the better to devour them.
On the
first floor the Long Gallery, designed to provide space for exercise in bad
weather, is unusual in that it stretches from front to back, rather than
sideways.
Next to it is the Grand Salon, recently used as a set
for a film about the Getty family.
Ceilings have elaborate plaster-work, and
the numerous fireplaces are decorated with beautiful tiling.
On the ground
floor, each of the doorways to the Chapel and Wilson room (now a public library)
bear panels with crests. The house is thought to have been designed by John
Thorpe, one of the earliest known British architects, who lived c 1560 – 1620. It
passed through several owners, and between 1767 and 1923 was owned by the
Maryon-Wilson family, who added the Old Library with its striking ceiling (below) and the Minstrel Gallery in the entrance hall (now
a tea room).
They also enclosed the village green at the front of the house,
which is why the original gateway, with its elaborate decoration (below), now stands apparently stranded in the middle
of the front lawn.
During World War I the house was used as a hospital for
officers, and in 1925 was bought by Greenwich Council. The building’s front was
damaged in WWII when a German V2 rocket struck in the garden.
Among the
interior casualties was this statue of Vulcan, on the Grand Salon fireplace, who lost
some toes, and the plaster work ceiling in the Long Gallery. This was recast
using the original moulds that had been stored in the basement; the facade was
rebuilt with non-matching bricks (all that were available in wartime). Today Charlton
House is cared for by the Royal Greenwich Heritage Trust.
In the grounds you
will find Jacobean stables, an Amnesty International Peace Garden (above), and a magnificent
gnarled mulberry tree, said to have been ordered by King James I to encourage
the establishment of a silk industry in England. (Unfortunately it never took
off, as the trees he procured were black mulberries, while the silkworms feed
on white.)
It still produces fruit, which is used in the cafe’s seasonal
desserts. There’s also a Summer House, originally a banqueting house.
This was
built in 1630 and attributed to Inigo Jones, who designed the nearby Queen’s
House in Greenwich. After having been converted to public toilets, it was
closed in the early 90’s. Restoration is now underway, thanks to a donation
from the World Monuments Fund. Once the first stage of this is completed, it
will become home to temporary exhibitions and events - yet another reason to
visit Charlton House.
Entrance to the house and grounds is free.
https://www.greenwichheritage.org/visit/charlton-house
