This
fascinating exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery is not just about
fashion – it’s a journey through history – a reflection of society over the
past ten decades.
It starts
in the present, with a huge image of Alexander McQueen with a cigarette and a
skull, then winds its way back to the magazine’s beginnings in 1916 – launched because
World War I made transatlantic shipments of American Vogue impossible. The
first edition – price one shilling – contained a forecast of autumn fashions
and promised to tell readers ‘where the waistline ought to be, and whether hats
have wings’. Many of the early photographs and issues are scratched and cracked
– in fact, it’s a wonder so much has survived, since during World War II, the
magazine’s archive was largely pulped to make more paper as part of the war
effort.
There's a magazine from each year on display. All
the great names of photography are featured: Baron Adolph de Meyer, Norman Parkinson, Lee
Miller, Cecil Beaton, Snowdon, Helmut Newton, David Bailey, Patrick Demarchelier,
Mario Testino..... The women featured in the early editions
are a mix of society figures (including a young Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and the Duchess of
Windsor on her wedding day) and relatively unknown models looking haughty,
refined and immaculate, even when photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1941 against the
bombed-out ruins of Middle Temple. ‘Fashion is indestructible’, reads the
caption.
The austerity of the war years is followed by a burst of optimism, reflected in less formal images. In the 1950s the ‘Young Ideas’ pages were launched and social equality of a kind reached Vogue, with a series of portraits of people engaged in ‘small trades’: chimney sweeps, dustmen, rag and bone men.
The austerity of the war years is followed by a burst of optimism, reflected in less formal images. In the 1950s the ‘Young Ideas’ pages were launched and social equality of a kind reached Vogue, with a series of portraits of people engaged in ‘small trades’: chimney sweeps, dustmen, rag and bone men.
A timeline (above), showcases covers from across the decades. Highlights of
the later rooms include
Ronald Traeger’s 1967 photo of Twiggy zooming by on a bike, Peter Lindbergh’s 1990
cover of the ‘Supermodels’ - Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz,
Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford - and Corinne Day’s controversial Kate Moss underwear shoot
from 1993, taken at the height of the ‘grunge’ trend. Rarely
seen photographs of the Beatles and a 27-year-old Jude Law are included, along with
portraits of people who have shaped the cultural landscape of the 20th
century: from Henri Matisse and Marlene Dietrich to Princess Diana and David Beckham. Prince Charles is captured in his garden at Highgrove (below) while Boris Johnson poses at the
Olympic Park.
Editor in
Chief of British Vogue, Alexandra Shulman, describes it as a landmark
exhibition. “I am incredibly proud of this collection of exceptional
photography and of the whole concept of the exhibition," she says. "It shows the breadth
and depth of the work commissioned by the magazine as well as Vogue’s
involvement in the creation of that work.”
Vogue
100: A Century of Style, sponsored by Leon Max, runs until May 22. Admission
without donation £17; Concessions available.
No comments:
Post a Comment